North America


Grand Cenote, Tulume

Today’s plan: travel from Playa del Carmen to Tulum. Enjoy the Grand Cenote. Travel on to Chetamal, a town at the southern boarder, close to Belize. I am making my way to Belize, Honduras, and the sailboat. I write this on my iPad’s built-in keyboard at 8:34pm on a dark bus from Tulum to Chetamal. For the 1st time on this trip, I am not alone as the only English speaker on the bus. Jessie, with whom I took the hour-long comfy Collectivo from Playa del Carmen to Tulum (40 pesos, but locals may have paid only 20) sits beside me, resting. (He will likely travel with me at least into Belize.) We left the Happy Gecko hostel/hotel around 11am. The plan was to leave around 10 but heck, we’re traveller’s and not tight on any schedule. I’d gone to bed around 1am and woken up for good at 9:30, […]


The boat I was heading to.

Last day in Playa: GET TO THAT BOAT!

…but what about the boat, that this was a dream opportunity for me, that I had been wishing for a boat to sail exactly this course and allow me to join the crew.

No, take it slow, there will be another boat, God will provide, he said. I said something about maybe not getting to Panama and then to Colombia if I don’t have this opportunity again — and suddenly something, clicked. Sailing, the San Blass Islands!?, he exclaimed. Yes, I replied. “GO!” he replied. “Get out of here, get down this coast, get to that boat!”


Passover Seder in Cancun

About 150 people attended this Seder. Hebrew may have been the most spoke languages there. The rabbi had quite a challenge being heard and keeping the attention of the large room. Very different from the last 19 Seders of my (well, my brother’s) ever-growing family. I missed the family and learning there but also loved being at this one. One woman is starting a Kibbutz between Playa and Cancun!


Bus from Izamal to Cancun

Again, I am the only foreigner on the bus. In fact, the only tourists I saw today were the same couple from the pyramid. Izamal is a day trip for most people and a destination at which to stay resort style with a rented car for others. I wish I had picked up a book to read. The iPhone is useless for reading without Internet. 5 hours with nothing to read. What a waste that is because for 20 years I have mourned having time to read. The bus arrived at 2;40. I zipped up the backpack straps and carried my pack onto the bus taking the first seat on the non-driver’s side so i can have leg room and a view. My pack is on the floor in front of the seat beside me. Space permitting and with a stop in Villadolid I am more comfortable having it on […]


Living on tacos; waiting for seafood

Living on Tacos in Merida, Mexico. In Cancun lived on Tacos and all other ready-made hot food at Chechrui, the local supermarket. Loving it. I expected seafood though, with the Gulf Coast and the Caribbean Coast. It was disappointing to learn from my friend Dalila that fishing wasn’t permitted on the coast in and near Cancun. It was also exciting to learn that in Chetumal there is seafood! I met a really nice guy (another CouchSurfing guy, friend of my host) who is from there and filled me in on his favorite restaurant. I’ll be dining there and posting about it for sure.


Life without email was hard

After I was robbed, I immediately changed passwords — and for my email, even changed the username. That was a mistake though, starting a chain reaction that left me unable to filter spam and to delete emails for about 6 days. I could’t find or notice real messages under the weight of the unwanted. It was hard to give up my landline and physical address. It was harder to give up my AT&T cell number as that was my last phone line. But to lose access to my email, limited to wi-fi as it was, really cut me off.  It was so great to get to my Merida CouchSurfing host, Daniel, and have a fellow Mac/iPhone geek to help me figure out the problem. I was great to not be alone in the problem. I am so happy to have my email back these past few days!


Laundry in Merida

As I write this, over half my clothing is drying in the breeze on a Merida rooftop. By the time I arrived at Daniel’s, it was absolutly time to do laundry. Hand washing garments and hanging them to dry in my Cancun hotel rooms was not successful as 3 days later the items were still damp and smelled rancid. This morning after the other 4 guests headed out on their way, I showered, did some sewing, then did my laundry. Daniel showed me how to use the washing machine. Using a bucket, we scooped water from the rooftop cistern to partly fill the machine. Adding the clothes and a bit of detergent, I turned the dial at the bottom to 13 minutes and watched the agitation. After 2 minutes it was clear that my clothing was very dirty. However I didn’t want to mess with the dial. Instead I let […]


Arrived in Merida

I arrived in Merida while it was still light. While on the bus I realized I had not written down Daniel’s address so I’d need Internet. That turned out to be a very pleasant surprise! In the bus station I asked a man for help asking for a McDonalds or such for Internet. The woman who worked there replied in excellent English that there is no need to Burger King or MD because the downtown was all Internet – gratis. And it was only 4 blocks down and 4 blocks to the left. I enjoyed the walk, buying a real Mexican ice cream pop (paleta) to eat as I walked. I got chocolate this time, but the fruit pops are the true prize in Mexico. (Good thing I had my bottle of water to wash my hand after. I was covered in drips on this dry hot and humid day.) […]


Into Valladolid & its hostels

After the solstice at Chichen Itzá I considered spending the night in the immediate town, a small village called Piste (Pee sta). I’d been told while watching the sun, of a big backpacker party in a park nearby and my tour guide had recommended staying in the village. I also thought I might walk back to the structures in the morning. I walked back to the tour bus with my friends of the day, then said so long and donned my pack once again. The village was just a few blocks walk. Passing the ADO busses, I asked around and got one lead on a hostel like place. Walking about a mile I failed to come to it. I met 2 hitch-hiking Spanish-speaking gals along the way, enjoyed the sandwich they offered, then saw them off. I gave up on staying in this town. No one knew of the park […]


Equinox at Chichen Itza, Mayan Calendar Magic in the Yucatan

It wasn’t planned, but when I arrived in Cancun I learned we were just weeks away from the spring equinox, a time when the ancient Mayan calendar (which is what the so-called pyramids are) would do a shadow effect of a snake crawling down the structure. (And traveling without a schedule enables you to hang around for things you discover along the way or for surprises.)


Parque de Las Palapas, the true Cancun Mexico

My first night in Cancun my CouchSurfing host and hostess took me to a park that I loved. As we drove there and I have yet to see a true street map of Cancun, I had no idea where it was. Last week my friend Susan and I walked there en route to her hotel and I was excited to be there again – but I still did not really know where it was as we’d doubled back there through side streets. Tonight, hours after I planned to be gone from Cancun, my local friend Juan suggested another hotel, a hostel, and it turned our to be right on Palapas Park and I found out this great park is just blocks from my hotel. I had walked past the street leading to it from the other side of the park many times So tonight I learned where I could have […]


Working from Cancun again

As I remained in Cancun for a week searching for my stolen Mac, I did whatever I had to in order to get my work done and not let my clients done. Stopping into the Office Depot across from my hotel, I found it cool and comfortable so I stayed a while. My work tools of the day (March 19, 2012), and of many days to come: iPhone 3GS that once belonged to my cousin Elena, V-moda earphones, and a fabulous battery by Scosche. This battery almost didn’t make the packing cut as I favored their lighter battery and their solar battery, but it recharges my iPhone at least 2-3 and still shows 3 lights. I have come to rely on it greatly. What I am doing: using an iPhone app called Voxer to speak, walkie-talkie style with my friend, fellow web designer (and GoLive 5 Bible contributor) to update […]


Cell phone & phone calls in the Yucatan

Cell phones are big here. It seems as if every one has one. Walk into a woman’s room and you’ll here a woman speaking from her stall – just like I hear in Los Angeles. Yet pay phones are far from a thing of the past here. You can’t walk very far without seeing a phone and Internet cafe. Well, cafe would be a misnomer. It’s really a smallish shop with 2 rows of stalls. One row is of Windows towers for email. The other is of phone booths containing tabletop phones and a chair so you can enjoy your call. Payment is done through the shops proprietor. Hoping to find my stolen Mac, I visited a dozen or so pawn shops. The trip through Pawn Shops was shocking: the prices being asked for electronics was virtually the same as the prices in the local Office Depot or Sam’s Club. […]


Apple in Cancun

Of course, I had to see Apple Resellers in Cancun. I plan to do so everywhere I go. The iShop, with 20 stores in Mexico, is the largest reseller, I believe. Coming to see them was more than a wish after my Mac was stolen. I was desperate to plug my SuperDuper! Clone into any Intel Mac so I could access my info, make sure data was safe and work out ways to get my work done. Anyway, here is the iShop. oh, the huge box in front is a promotion: bring in an old piece of technology and get 1,000 pesos off your new Mac. It was fun to check out the box each of the 4-5 days I came by.


Finally online (at Starbucks) & at the beach

(Posted to Facebook at 1:24pm on March 11.) I’m grinning ear to ear, internally shouting, yes! finally! I’m online! Internet is quite spotty in the real Cancun. (I hate to admit it but I went to Starbucks. In the hotel zone, of course. Starbucks is Starbucks. Nothing to report in that arena.) My roommate friends, 2 great women from other parts of Mexico, are at the playa (beach). I can’t take too much beach, and have the reality of work, so I’m wandering around the city. I’ll meet them later. (The update added later:) I did meet my roommates. I went across the street to look for a bathroom and they happened to see me cross the street. What a surprise to hear them call out to me. This place is crowded. We had a few tacos, then went to the beach.


Second dinner in Mexico (Cancun)

Tonight Mario and Osman took me to there other favorite place to eat. We were also joined by Peter, the Australian guy we met in the park the night before. Peter and Osman actually spent the day together. Marion had to work. In the morning I went down the coast a bit to see the resort areas. Later, before dinner, I went to a nearby Internet place to Jailbreak my iPhone 3GS. (My very first days without a phone were hard on people I tried to deal with. It was so hard to say no, I don’t have a phone and figure out what to do.)


First dinner in Mexico

My host Marion and Osman picked me up at the bus station in Cancun. It wasn’t as straight forward as that because without a cell phone I was unable to communicate with them. But a few nice people and a calling card later, they found me. It was not an easy start for their hosting experience. I had expected to have all day to get to them but because Delta brought me in 5 or more hours late, that changed. Anyway, they brought me to a fabulous park for a dinner of Empanadas and Horchata. More later.


LA to Cancun, Mexico

Delta’s 11:45pm flight out of LA on Sunday, March 4, 2012 with a flight to Detroit. Then, after a 2+ hour layover, I boarded their next plane to Cancun. ETA noon on Monday Mach 5, 2012. My arrival in Cancun was delayed by some airplane trouble, and their refusal to let us switch to other already-outgoing plans. (I’m sure happy that Delta didn’t fly a questionable plane but they could have done much better for us.) After several lost hours, they gave us a new plane. I arrived Monday night after dark, after 23 hours of airports/planes. I’d planned to have hours to find my way into Cancun, introduce myself to Cancun and find my way to the home of  CouchSurfing hosts. However, that plan went out the window with Delta’s delay and darkness entering that window’s field of view. Instead, at the Airport I enlisted the help of one of […]


Here by choice

A thought on a cold morning: I’m cold. But I’m here in NYC by choice so grin and bear it. Actually, I don’t have to grin. No one’s watching me. I am here because I wanted to be here. I can leave any time. Just deal with it. The flip side: I am back in my hometown, living in my beloved NYC energy, seeing great friends I have missed for a long time. I am so glad I am here!