Izamal Evening & Day

After helping me find a hotel, Rob Mosser kindly drove me around a bit to get my bearings then dropped me on town and drove off. I had a couple of Panuchos at a small shop where a couple from Belgium were having beer. They left shortly and I dined alone at the outdoor table.

Stomach full, I walked the 5 blocks or so to the pyramid Kinich Kak Mo built for the Maya Sun God. I started climbing it from street level and found myself on a plateau. I walked around to see the view and to my surprise saw a pyramid not far away. I had only climbed the base, and walked part of it’s over 2 acres (700,000 cubic meters.)

I still had the actual pyramid to view and climb. I read the pyramid is 10 levels high but didn’t count.


It was getting dark and I didn’t want to be having to come down alone in the dark. Happily a couple waited for me at the bottom and I climbed all the way down with company.

Rob saw me in town and stopped to talk then invited me to dinner at his favorite place, Muul Restaurant. I finally had Mayan lime soup. I must learn its proper name. (Soupa de limon?) It was a broth with shredded chicken, a lime slice and I don’t recall what else. Apparently the an ancient Mayans knew the heath values of chicken soup too.

Waking up in Izmal, I enjoyed dressing in an air conditioned room after a good sleep and mediocre shower in a clean bathroom.

I walked to the town center, dropped my backpack off with Wahchine at Muul Restaurant per Rob’s arrangement for me. I then set off down the street beside the restaurant to go to the Izamal xx pyramid and to check the 2nd bus station. As I walked, a man driving one of the horse buggies stopped. Asking 150pesos for the 30 minute tour, I agreed to 100. (I gave him $10 after.) It felt decadent to ride but it was nice to be off my feet.

On the tour we passed the bus station because it is at Parque de Madre so he stopped at the ticket office for me. The next bus is At 2:30 and it is 130 pesos. I will need change.

Back in town I walked thru the church quickly, then found the credit union to change $30.

Then I asked Wachine is I could order just one Panucho instead of this plate of 3 and half (media) of the Guacamole. Happily, he said yes. I write this page as I sit on the town square in the fresh air but out of the sun, watching and listening to life going by. (I am also on the lookout for tourists as I wish to find a car ride to Cancun. 5 hours on the bus without a bathroom is not appealing. But I am not having any luck seeing tourists today, except the big tour bus .)

My lunch, as last night’s dinner with Rob, was great and I recommend this place.
Muul Restaurant
El Savor do los Mayas
With each meal they automatically brought chips with 2 dips: one of beams, but the other of ground Pumkin Seeds called Silquipat. I love the latter.
The Guacamole is fresh. They easily made it without Cilantro for me. (35 pesos for a large plate.)
The Panucho is a tortilla under a smear of beans then a lot of high appearing quality shredded white meat chicken. On it is tomato, lettuce, onion, and beet. (45 pesos for 3) My meal came to 30 pesos without a beverage. (i had just picked up a 1l bottle of cold water for 6 pesos at a nearby market.) After eating in more common local venues, it is very nice to eat in a more elegant place where even the bathroom is truly beautiful). The prices are very reasonable too. And I enjoyed Wachine and the other staff.

Now I am at the bus station closest to town center awaiting the bus to Cancun (130 pesos). Again, I am the only foreigner on the bus. I saw the same couple from the pyramid as I ate – and not another tourist today. Izamal is a day trip for most people and a destination at which to stay resort style with a rented car for others. I wish I had picked up a book to read. The iPhone is useless for reading without Internet. 5 hours with nothing to read. What a waste that is because for 20 years I have mourned having time to read.

The bus arrived and departed for Cancun quickly. I zipped up the backpack straps and carried my pack onto the bus taking the first seat on the non-driver’s side so i can have leg room and a view. My pack is on the floor in front of the seat beside me. Space permitting and with a stop in Villadolid I am more comfortable having it on the bus.

The bus has the same plush seats as the last two but no television and no music. We are on flat open land with low brown plants and sometimes trees. I can hear the wind as we speed through it on our narrow 2- lane country road. We slow down considerably to pass approaching cars. And now, 1/2 hour later, we are in a town and our first passenger, a woman with bags, gets off.

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